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Skin Polish
Skin Polish is the next of the series of skincare products that I am going to research.  I use this at home and have noticed that my skin is not EVEN as red as it used to be.  I really like this product and use it 2-3 times per week.  I use it in the shower, I wash first then apply the mask then wash my hair and my body then I rinse off the mask.  My skin feels awesome after I get out of the shower then I immediately do my moisture routine. 
Skin polish has the smell of lemon chiffon, subtle and fresh but not at all strong or lasting so I don’t see how it would interact with any other scent you might want to use.  So, Let us dive into the ingredients from the website:
Water/aqua/eau, Prunus Armenia-ca (apricot) kernel oil, cetearyl alcohol, cetearyl glucoside, Aloe barbadensis (aloe vera) leaf juice, Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) wax beads, glycerin, yeast extract, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, arachidyl glucoside, galactoarabinan, phospholipids, tocopheryl acetate, retinyl palmitate, ascorbyl palmitate, Butyrospermu m parkii (shea) nut butter, Lavandula angustifolia (lavender) flower water, squalane, Citrus limon (lemon) peel oil, Cupressus sempervirens (cypress) leaf oil, Litsea cubeba fruit oil, Calendula officinalis (calendula) flower extract, Tilia cordata (linden) flower/leaf extract, Rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf extract, Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil, hydrogenated lecithin, xanthan gum, dehydroacetic acid, benzyl alcohol.
Ingredients in bold are Certified Organic
2.176% of the total ingredients are from Organic Farming
pH = 5.1-5.8
 
Water, is water it is an agent that makes the oils fluffy and not heavy on the skin.  When a water-oil emulsion is used it has a dryer finish and has a greater absorption into the skin. An emulsion is drops of oil suspended in water with an agent that keeps them from separating.  Like water and oil…
Apricot Kernal Oil- This is one of my favorites.  It goes into the skin and is not oily on top of the skin. This is from my book:”Color is pale yellow, pressed from the kernel, contains mostly Omega 3, 9.  Used for all skins especially aged, sensitive, dehydrated, inflamed and dry skin.  Apricot kernel oil is very penetrating. High in linoleic and linolenic acids. Apricot Kernel oil has a shelf life 6 months to 1 year.”  (2018, Herbs and How to Use them with recipes by Donna Bass)
Ceteryl alcohol:  is used as an emulsification stabilizer(keeps the water and oil mixed together), is emollient (softening or soothing to the skin) and surfactant (makes water wetter to break down dirt and oils).  On the EWG database this has a very low hazard rating
Ceteryl glucoside: is another emulsifier and surfactant.  On the EWG database they give it a very low overall hazard rating
Aloe Vera Juice: Aloe juice has so many fabulous properties.  It is organic and the company is very conscious of sustainable practices.
 Aloe vera juice is under some controversy at this point.  The culprit is a component called Aloin.  Aloin is found in the outer skin and latex that has been linked to cancer when taken internally with rats.  There has never been any research to show that using Aloe externally causes any disease.  I did find that there had been many studies that showed the healing properties of Aloe (https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/27314762, https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/27084867, https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4452276/ to name a very, very few).  It has been found to be anti-inflammatory, soothing and healing for skin over and over again.
Jojoba Wax beads:  This is the exfoliant for this product.  There isn’t a lot in the formula, they are very lightly exfoliant and I would recommend it even for sensitive skin (I have sensitive skin and a bit of rosacea, YAY Irish skin!)  My first thought was microbeads; these are not microbeads, they will degrade in the environment.  EWG has it as a very low overall hazard.  Jojoba beads are used often because they are gentler than seeds or husks.
Glycerine: emollient, usually from a vegetable source, hydrating by pulling moisture from the air and keeping it close to the skin for a dewy finish
Yeast Extract:  This has a low overall hazard on EWG, it is a skin conditioner. L’Oreal says that yeast extract can “induce a calming effect that can soothe problem skin.”  It is also antioxidant.
Arachidyl alcohol: Very low overall risk according to EWG.  Arachidyl alcohol is used as an emollient, and emulsion stabilizer and controls viscosity (thickness).
Behenyl alcohol: is emollient, emulsifier, and thickener, according to EWG also a very low overall hazard.
Arachidyl glucoside: very low overall health concern used as a surfactant and emulsifying agent
Galactoarabinan: very low overall hazard.  This is a polysaccharide (carbohydrate consisting of a number of sugars) obtained from the Larix (Larch) tree.  Used as a film former and  fragrance ingredient.  What in the world is a film former??? I was wondering too, here is what I found.  A film forming agent is an ingredient that leaves a smooth feel on the skin, when applied they leave pliable cohesive and continuous coverage over the skin surface. (Paula’s Choice Skincare So it makes a dewy and even film over the skin.  Im using the word dewy a lot aren’t I? ). Normally this agent is PVP, acrylate acrylamides and copolymers…I will take the tree extract thanks.
Phospholipids: Very low overall hazard.  I know what a phospholipid is!!!  Its what a cell wall is made of!  Do I win?  Wait.  What?  Why is this in my skincare? Interesting question.  Phospholipids have an interesting property, the way they line up they attract and hold onto water.  Phospholipids have a water loving head and a tail that repels water so water is attracted then trapped on your skin.  According to one article it is called a “second skin” (truth in aging).  Phospholipids are carriers so that other ingredients can penetrate the skin better.  Phospholipids are also thought to be antioxidant, when combined with Vitamin E.
Tocopherol acetate: a combination of Vitamin E and Acetic acid.  Overall hazard is low and a half.  There are some small concerns with allergic reactions.  The use of Tocopherol acetate is as an antioxidant and skin conditioning agent.
Retinyl Palmitate: I was surprised.  This, according to EWG has a high overall hazard.  It is composed of vitamin A and retinol.  The problem is that it causes sun sensitivity and can speed the development of skin tumors and lesions.  Norwegian and German health agencies have warned that daily application may contribute to overdoses of vitamin A for sensitive and impaired populations.  The reason for this warning is that retinyl palmitate converts to retinol in the skin and can cause some skin reactions.  Retinol also should never be used without sunscreen or wash it off before going into the sun.
There are some sources outside of EWG that disagree with their rating.  The argument is that the animals used do not reflect “real world” usage on humans and that the rats used were already predisposed to cancer in sunlight.  True enough, naked rats are predisposed to skin cancers because that is what they are bred to study, and humans are not rats (mostly). So what to believe???  Its true that vitamin A causes photosensitivity which can lead to skin cancers over time…that is true.  Retinyl palmitate is considered to be a gentler milder form of Vitamin A, is found to be an effective antioxidant, also true. 
Research shows a connection between the sun, retinyl palmitate (Vitamin A) and skin cancers and lesions. This is definitely a controversial ingredient because while it does come with some negatives retinyl palmitate is used to exfoliate and create cell regeneration of the skin.  Retinyl palmitate has also been shown to regenerate collagen and elastin to help with signs of aging, be an antioxidant and fight wrinkles.  The best advice I found was if you use products with Vitamin A, Retinol or even Retinyl Palmitate daily use lots of sunscreen (check to be sure it is free from vitamin A ingredients)   
 So, my findings?  The days you use this product use perfect sunscreen under your makeup and over your moisturizer. 
Ascorbyl palmitate: Overall hazard is very low. It is used as an antioxidant and a fragrance ingredient; Masking
Shea Nut Butter: Shea Butter is all things delicious.  It is moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, antiaging, moisturizing, antioxidant, relieves dry itchy skin and reduces stretchmarks…how do you hate that?  Rich in vitamin E and Vitamin A along with vitamins and minerals that nourish the skin and heal it. And its organic!
Lavender Flower Water (LFW): I make this for facials.  Lavender flower water is useful for all skins and skin ages.  LFW is a humectant, skin conditioning agent, its also anti inflammatory, and can be used as a fragrance.  LFW also is antibacterial, antifungal and helps to treat acne.  I have been using LFW for years and I love it just before bed.  A spritz on my face to freshen and the scent sends me to dreamland in no time.
Squalane: is a naturally occurring oil that can be animal or vegetable.  EWG rates it as a very low all over hazard.  It is used for skin conditioning and is emollient.
Lemon Peel Oil: this is a low and a half overall hazard.  This is the fragrance of this product, and also it has astringent and toning properties.  Citrus oils can make the skin photosensitive in concentrations over 2% (http://info.achs.edu/blog/what-is-photosensitivity-with-essential-oils). 
Cypress leaf oil: Cypress oil has decongestant properties to help diffuse discoloration and puffiness.  It calms inflamed skin, is astringent and antibacterial
LItsea cubeba oil: is for oily skin, it helps to reduce the appearance of pores and has a citrus scent.  It does not cause photosensitivity.
Calendula Flower Extract: is anti-inflammatory, antifungal, antibacterial, soothing.  It is a great wound healer.  Often used for diaper rash, safe and gentle healer, antioxidant.
Linden flower: has toning properties due to tannins, antioxidant, astringent (also makes a great tea but that is another story)
Rosemary Leaf Extract: Antioxidant, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory
Sunflower seed oil: antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, emollient, will treat acne, hydrating.  High in Oleic acid and vitamin E.  Moisturizes sunburned skin.
Hydrogenated lecithin: very low on the scale of overall hazard (back to EWG).  Hydrogenated lecithin is used as a skin conditioning agent, emulsifying agent,
Xanthan gum: is a thickener.  If you have eaten gluten free products you have eaten xanthan gum.  EWG has it as a very low overall hazard. It is also an emulsion stabilizer and skin conditioning agent and forms a gel. It is a poly saccharide which is a sugar based polymer that is produced by bacteria
Dehydroacetic acid: Very low overall hazard according to EWG, it is a preservative
Benzyl alcohol: Benzyl alcohol has a moderate overall hazard due to its connection with contact allergies.  The function of benzyl alcohol is as a fragrance additive, solvent, preservative or masking agent.
 
My take on this product:  I love it!  I do!  I would however, use sunscreen after my facial.  I have found this really calms my skin and really has helped change my skin.  The areas that were dry are not anymore and my skin glows, I wouldn’t stop using this I would only add sunscreen.
 
 I used the EWG website of cosmetic ingredients.  EWG is tough and will report any and all reports of negative and positive reports therefore sometimes giving a skewed view of an ingredient, in that case more research needs to be done.  I used PubMed, Anna Marie and Truth in aging as alternative information and to get a deeper view of an ingredient.  
​www.EWG.org.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Quench Cleanser
I love quench cleanser…holy cats!  I find it cooling for my reactive skin (I get red really easily and react to ingredients with warmth and redness, Im kind of a delicate flower.) it gets the job done and cools my firey skin.  Lets find out how this puppy works.  Here are the ingredients:
Aloe barbadensis (aloe vera) leaf juice, Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil, Rosa damascena (rose) flower water, leuconostoc/Radish root ferment filtrate, glycerin, coco glucoside, coconut alcohol, lauryl glucoside, sucrose cocoate, sodium lauroyl lactylate, Calophyllum inophyllum (foraha) fruit/seed oil, sclerotium gum, Panax ginseng (ginseng) root extract, Rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf extract, hydrogenated lecithin, glyceryl caprylate, sodium anisate, xanthan gum, citric acid.
Ingredients in bold are Certified Organic
89.15% of the total ingredients are from Organic Farming pH = 4.8-5.5
 
Let’s look at each ingredient one at a time together.
Aloe barbadensis- Aloe is cooling to the skin, emollient, and healing.  I wrote about this in my materia medica…here are some of the known mechanisms of healing for Aloe: Beta Carotine, Vitamin C, E and B12 along with folic acid and choline along with minerals like Calcium, chromium, copper, selenium, magnesium, manganese, potassium, sodium and zinc are among the MANY ingredients that cause Aloe to be such a great healer of the skin.  Its also organic!  Bonus!

Helianthus annuus is sunflower seed oil. Sunflower seed oil is really high in Vitamin E or tocopherol which is an awesome antioxidant, it is also anti-inflammatory.  So, here I am going to talk about antioxidants and why they are so important.  We always hear that this is an antioxidant or that is…wth does that really mean???
As we go through the day we encounter lots of free radicals…what in the world is a free radical?  Its an incomplete and unbalanced molecule with a charge.  Free radicals are large components of pollution. Smoke, ozone and the like.  These molecules are missing one or two electrons which make them unstable and looking for an electron wherever they can find one to make themselves stable and have a neutral charge which all molecules strive for…neutrality and balance. Without antioxidants those electrons can come from our own bodies, our skin or if we inhale them, our organs making our own molecules unstable which causes them to become reactive, it’s really a huge cycle, everyone is looking for neutrality and balance.  Antioxidants have extra electrons to share or donate freely to free radicals to make them balanced and neutral without having to wrestle them from our organs or skin.
  Antioxidants like Vitamin E and C have extra electrons to donate like the Mother Theresas of the atomic world, preventing oxidation and instability of tissues and cells.  So important to health.

Rosa damascene flower water- this ingredient is the queen of skincare ingredients (no really, rose is considered the queen of skincare).  Rose flower water is so soothing, so emollient, so supportive for mature and fragile skin. I have used this ingredient in so many of my own formulations for skincare, especially for people with health issues.  This one is organic too!  Wow!  I would love to be at that distillery…wouldn’t you?  Yummmm

leuconostoc/Radish root ferment filtrate- this is a bacteria that is the by-product of fermentation.  It has been found to have preservative properties.  EWG has this listed as super low overall hazard.

Glycerin- Glycerin is also known as glycerol, is sweet and non-toxic.  In cosmetics is used as a humectant (draws water from the air to skin) and emollient (soothing and smoothing). 

Coco glucoside- this is a surfactant (a surfactant reduces the surface tension of water making it “wetter” to better dissolve oil and dirt easier) and is super low on the EWG hazard list.

Coconut alcohol- Did you just cringe seeing alcohol in skin cleanser?  I did.  But this isn’t that kind of alcohol.  It’s the chemical kind of alcohol, which is just a chemical formulation and positions of atoms, not necessarily the stuff that burns and dries your skin.  This alcohol is a fatty alcohol that is also an emollient emulsion stabilizer (keeps emulsions emulsified), foam boosting viscosity (thickness) controller.  

lauryl glucoside- is a sugar and lipid (fat) based surfactant.  Super low on the EWG scale of hazards.
 
sucrose cocoate- overall hazard is super low, and is a skin conditioning agent, emollient and surfactant, antistatic and skin conditioning.
 
sodium lauroyl lactylate- the overall hazard is low and it is used as a surfactant and emulsifying agent. 
 
Calophyllum inophyllum (foraha) fruit/seed oil- this is tamanu seed oil.  I was just talking to another herbalist the other day about this amazing oil.  They said that this is all you would need in your tool kit for skin repair.  This really is an amazing oil!  Scientific studies include:  uses for sunburn, wound healing, scar healing. Anti acne, anti inflammatory, anti tumor , moisturinzing, increasing micro circulation, hypoallergenic all these studies are cited here: http://www.volcanicearth.com/tamanu-oil-botanical-profile.html and this paper from the International Journal of Cosmetic Science is really interesting also: http://www.dweckdata.co.uk/Published_papers/Tamanu.pdf tradition and science really speak to the quality and healing properties of this ingredient.
 
sclerotium gum- this is a skin conditioning agent, emulsion stabilizer and low on overall hazard on the EWG rating scale.
 
Panax Ginseng Root Extract-this is an organic ingredient that is very low on the EWG ingredient list.  Panax Ginseng Root extract is used in skincare according to Paula’s Choice panax ginseng is used to boost hydration, as an antioxidant and fades uneven skin tone and reduces wrinkles topically  and even boosts the natural firmness of skin. (https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/antioxidants/panax-ginseng-root-extract.html)
 
Rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf extract- firstly, this is not rosemary essential oil, this is rosemary extract which is going to have much less oil in it, so those of us who are familiar with essential oils know that this can be a really robust EO; This isn’t that.  This is an extract which is water infused (like a tea) extract.  This has an antioxidant effect and extends the shelf life of the product.  This is more of an antioxidant for the product itself more than for our skin.
 
Hydrogenated Lecithin- this has a low overall hazard according to EWG. It acts as a skin conditioning and emulsifying agent that is non-surfactant.  It is derived from egg yolks (which is why aioli emulsifies so well with olive oil…emulsification of lecithin from the yolk of the egg 😉 …science…who said I would never use those 3 years of chemistry in college?)
 
glyceryl caprylate-an overall super low overall hazard.  This ingredient is used as a skin conditioning agent, emollient, surfactant and emulsifier,
 
sodium anisate- very low overall hazard (one source said harmless) , derived from fennel and is an antimicrobial agent to preserve the product.
 
Xanthan Gum- is a thickener used in foods and in cosmetics for texture.  Harmless.
 
Citric Acid- citiric acid is used as a buffer to maintain the acidity of the product. Citric acid is derived from citrus fruits (oranges, limes, lemons etc)
 
 
This product is 89.15% organic…I love the transparency of this statistic.  Life is about balance.  There are some things that can be used organically and some things that cannot.  There are a number of reasons that things cannot be organic.  Sustainability and feasibility being two of them.  We cannot continue to sustain some of the organic products that we use…coconut and palm being two that jump out at me, and also shortages of Santal album (sandalwood) and real high-altitude lavender being a couple more that I have seen become unsustainable in my years of practice.  I like balance.  Also some of the non-organic ingredients don’t come in organic form with the organic standards.
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The pH of the product: 4.8-5.5…love this.  The acid mantle of the skin is our very first line of protection from outside invaders.  The acid mantle of the skin’s pH is 4.5-6.2.  This product will not strip the acid mantle by being too alkaline.  Good call.

Overall:  I really like quench.  I find it to be cooling and soothing to my skin, and cleans great!  Now that I know the thought that went into it I love it even more!!!
© 2018 Donna Bass and Mamma Moon Herbals